The city of Washington, Indiana
lurks like a hunchbacked stepchild in the corner of the state. Taking the two
lane highway into the loose collection of dirty, rundown houses and a few dying
businesses perched on the edges of cracked and eroded parking lots haunted by
starveling cats feels akin to suffocation. The town has two restaurants to
speak of: one is a family pizzeria that stays afloat through monopoly and the
popularity of pizza, and the other is a breakfast joint that exists in a
perpetual haze of airborne grease. The only thing the twisted and forgotten
town has to offer is the single two story motel, designed to look like Mount
Vernon or the White House.
It is here
that I will watch my grandfather’s corpse get carefully boxed up and dropped
into the earth. It is here that my mother, recently divorced, harrowed by
stress, and seeking the comforts her girlhood offered her, will happily inform
us we are going to live with our great aunt Samantha. It is here that I will
wage my war against my future.
I’ve never
met my aunt Samantha Everett before today. She is wrinkled, sort of brown from
her Indian mother, and hates the clan she has adopted as a survival tactic. The
Everett clan is a sprawling mass of relationships, feuds, old grudges, dying
relatives, squabbling children, land disputes, marriage disputes, ancient
debts, more ancient relatives, dementia, cancer, heart disease, dissension,
sedition, and death, carefully knotted through southern Indiana and burled in places
where the history is so marinated into the land and culture they may as well
have rights of nobility, replete with the noble obligation.
Until
today, the only things I’ve seen of Washington are all I’ve needed to see: the
inside of the insipid Mount Vernon motel, where they keep cheap bottles of
tainted water and an out-of-date collection of apple juice in the mini-fridge; the
inside of the Gruccio Family Pizzeria, run by the decidedly not Gruccio Alsop
family; the inside of two of the town’s three funeral homes, in which I
wandered freely, seeking food and respite from the hordes of family I didn’t know
and hunted by my haggard mother.